When you’re sitting in the salon, sipping a latte and rifling through Allure, with your hair pinched and poking out folded foils, we bet the last thing on your mind is “the science of hair dye.” You’re probably not wondering, what is ammonia? And how does it affect my hair cuticle?
Even if it is the “mane thing” happening on their head, of the 75% of women who get their hair colouredregularly, very few have a clue… or a care… about the chemical reactions that are not only changing the colour of their hair, but dramatically changing the condition and physical composition of each colour-treated strand. We get it—who wants to know the chemistry of colour processing?
Most women only care about the post-processing magic in the mirror. After all, it’s been documented that “great hair dye” is a major mood boost. A go-to confidence kick-starter we all count on!
Celebrity stylist, bradley leake (@hairbybradleyleake), is known as the main man who gave vanderpump rules’ stassi shroeder a super sexy, edgy chop that triggered mass hair envy. however, he’s also a colour-and-cut maestro and he’s going to help us break down the basics of hair colour chemistry.
However, there’s absolutely nothing magical about hair colour. as any professional colourist will tell you, it’s all about knowledge of the colour wheel and hardcore chemistry, coupled with years of experience, a deft touch and an artistic eye. so why should you bother learning about hair dye? well top colourists will tell you, “knowing the basics of hair colour chemistry will help you know how to keep your colour fresh, while keeping your texture healthier and stronger.”
How Does Hair Dye Work?
Permanent hair colour doesn’t just wash across your hair and leave a lovely shade of stain. It’s a little more aggressive. An act of “breaking and entering”, if you will. Because the only way new colour can get inside your hair shaft is by breaking down your hair’s natural barrier—the cuticle.
What does hair dye do to your hair cuticle?
The hair cuticle is your hair’s sturdy outer layer. it’s made up of scales, that lock tightly together like a protective coat of chainmail armour. the only way to deposit new colour is to lift those links. and the way to do it is with ammonia.
What is Ammonia & What Does It Do to Your Hair?
According to Bradley, “Most permanent hair dyes contain ammonia, which elevates the pH of the hair, causing the hair to swell and push the cuticle open, like a trap door. This exposes your hair’s natural pigment (aka the colour molecules) contained inside the hair.”
Enter, peroxide. (Literally.)
Peroxide and bleach are the same thing—and this ingredient is crucial in the next step of colour processing. Peroxide goes into the hair shaft where it oxidizes your natural colour proteins, leaving them colourless. Peroxide makes room for the new colour molecules (your colourist has chosen) to fill each strand.
New hair colour molecules are small, so they can easily enter the hair shaft. But once inside the hair, these molecules inter-react, join together and become polymers—much bigger molecules that can’t fit through or escape through the raised cuticles.
The result of this process is fresh colour, captured within your hair. “Your colourist does all the work to embed the colour molecules into your hair,” says Bradley. “Then it’s up to you to keep that colour captive.”
Why Should You Use Hair Care Products Made for Coloured Hair?
That is one critical reason to always use professional hair care products made exclusively for colour-treated hair. Unlike generic cleansing and styling products, which can actually strip your hair of colour, these formulas are designed to protect against fade, and to maintain your shade.
The other reason to always use formulas made exclusively for colour treated hair?
“Damage control”, says Bradley Leake. “Because damage is an unfortunate side effect of colour-processing.”
It’s inevitable—chemically lifting your hair’s cuticle layer causes some destruction, leaving the hair in a more fragile state. The more dramatic the colour process, the more likely the hair will be compromised.
How to Undo the Damage of Colouring Hair?
“Fortunately,” says Bradley, “Today there are breakthrough conditioning and treatment technologies such as Colour Wow Dream Cocktails… not to mention smarter, safer styling formulas… that can help repair and mitigate the ways hair is damaged by hair colour.” So now you can have the colour love and the healthier hair you crave!
To help repair your damaged hair, discover the full range of Dream Cocktails from Colour Wow Australia now.
